NEWSLETTER: VOLUME 3  
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It's that time of year again! For the first time in 15 years, I will not be making Thanksgiving dinner. My aunt loves to cook and bake, and has only requested a crudité & dip platter. I hardly know what to do with myself! I am, however, looking forward to making very special Christmas caramels ~ inspired by my visit to the Brittany salt marshes.

In addition to announcing my December Culinary Classes, I would like to share with you my impression of Anthony Bourdain who came to the Fayetteville Public Library last month, as well as introduce to you the heathiest and tastiest chicken, raised locally ~ buying local is the buzz of the moment; but buying quality local is what interests me the most. And, of course, two recipes geared toward Thanksgiving ~ jazzy version of Southern pecan pie...and what to do with left-over turkey.

Christmas gift certificates are available for cooking classes, private dining events, or a trip to Paris. Celebrate the upcoming holidays with Cuisine Karen. Unique, intimate food experiences await ....

 
  DECEMBER CULINARY CLASSES
I am pleased to announce the December Culinary Demonstration Classes to be held at the home of Patrice & Karen Gros in Eureka Springs, Arkansas. December is just around the corner, so be sure to reserve your place quickly ~ for those of you who have already requested a spot, please email me to confirm which date. Unlike classes in the past, the menu will be different for the Friday and Saturday classes.

FESTIVE HOLIDAY MENUS

Friday, December 7th, 2007
, 10:00am - 1:00pm

White wine mushrooms in puff pastry basket
Feuilletés aux Champignons
3 versions of Russian Borscht
Les trois variétés de Borscht Russe

Saturday, December 8th, 2007, 10:00am - 1:00pm
White wine mushrooms in puff pastry basket
Feuilletés aux Champignons
Beef tenderloin w/spinach-Dijon filling wrapped in pastry
Bœuf en croûte farci aux épinards à la moutarde

Class fee:  $28
Includes copies of recipes, sample portions of menu items,
plus a side of freshly-baked Little Bread Company bread & Patrice's gourmet salad greens
Reserve by email or call 479-253-7461.

When placing reservation, please let me know which date you prefer.
 
  PARIS

The trips to Provence in June are now fully booked, but I am accepting reservations for Provence in 2009.

I have openings for Paris this June. A trip to Paris can make a wonderful gift!

Speaking of Paris, I feel compelled to make a plug for the movie La Vie en Rose (watch trailer), the filmed biography of one of France's most beloved singers of the 1940's & 50's. Edith Piaf, whose passion to sing and survive, live and love, brought her from the slums of Paris to the limelight of New York. She became a national icon in France and today represents the very essence of Paris. I can't even see the trailer without fighting back tears.

 
  MEETING ANTHONY BOURDAIN
On meeting Anthony Bourdain by Karen Gros

I went to the Fayetteville Public Library last month to hear Anthony Bourdain speak. Having no television myself, I have never seen his Travel Network TV show entitled No Reservations , nor read any of his books. Being a culinary enthusiast, however, I had heard of him ~ but not necessarily very positively, things like…he smokes while he cooks, uses profanity, and is insulting. So, I didn't necessarily expect to like him. When we appeared at the library, we were given the chance to purchase his books in order to have them signed on the spot that night. I glanced through the choices, not feeling particularly drawn to any ~ least of all his Les Halles Cookbook, as I already have many French cookbooks that I love and refer to often for these kinds of classics.

Once inside the pre-event cocktail party..... (more)
 
  LOCAL TREASURE
The Brothers & Sisters of Charity at Little Portion Hermitage


Cornish/White Rock cross bird is bred for it's
high meat content


The bottomless hoop houses allow access
to fresh grass, bugs and sunshine

I had the pleasure of touring Little Portion Hermitage Farm last week, located just 15 minutes north of Eureka Springs. What a blessing to have them in our community! The Hermitage is in their fifth year of dedication to raising the highest quality, all natural pasture raised chicken.  Their USDA label has quickly earned them a reputation for producing the finest Cornish/White Rock cross birds which are fed only natural grains, no animal by-products, no steroids or antibiotics while being treated humanely and raised with love.

In the spring, summer and fall, the chickens are raised in hoop houses in the field which are moved daily by hand onto fresh grass. They are pastured in small natural groups of about 75. This arrangement allows the birds to interact with one another, chase bugs, sunbathe and take dust-baths. The hoop houses are moved daily, allowing our chickens access to fresh grass. Their feed is a special mix ground at Little Portion Hermitage.  Such a healthy lifestyle results in a superior bird. The meat has a better taste, is firmer in texture and has a lower cooking weight loss than conventionally raised chickens. These free-range chickens have 21% less total fat, 30% less saturated fat and 28% fewer calories than their factory-farmed counterparts.

When you choose these birds over confinement birds by large growers, you are choosing to enhance your health.  You also contribute to encouraging biodiversity, improving soil fertility and eliminating waste-management problems associated with confinement-feeding operations. 

Their poultry-on-grass reduces greenhouse gases in the air due to a process called sequestration, wherein the grasses and legumes found in well-managed pastures are able to draw excess carbon dioxide from the air and return it to the soil as carbon. All in all, by choosing these birds, you are making a very positive impact on your body and your environment.

In addition to whole chicken and cut-up pieces, Little Portion is now offering two new products: Boudin Blanc (a chicken & cream purée formed into a link) and Chicken Sausage (various flavors available such as Chicken-Mushroom and Chicken-Apple). In the spring, look for eggs and mushrooms from Little Portion. In the future, they also plan to branch out into producing goat and dairy products. Little Portion products are currently available for sale in Fayetteville at Ozark Natural Foods, and in Eureka Springs/Holiday Island at Harts, The Eureka Market and SunFest. Join me in supporting this invaluable local treasure.

Contact Rick Ims at Little Portion for tours, as well as requests for freshly butchered (unfrozen) chickens. You may also request chicken bones for making stock, and chicken livers .... paté, anyone?

 
  THANKSGIVING RECIPES
Tarte aux noix à l'orange et lavande

A festive variation of American pecan pie, this French version shows off the naturally rich flavor of exotic nuts. My favorite combination is pecans, almonds & pistachios. You may wish to try using walnuts, macadamia nuts, or pine nuts. Thanks to Sam's club, all of these nuts are available to us at reasonable prices.

Makes one 11-inch tart ~ serves 8-12

 


Ingredients
:

1 recipe Pâte Sucrée (following)
3 c. combination of whole or half nuts
3 large eggs
½ c. honey
½ c. pure maple syrup
1 t. dried lavender flowers
1 t. grated orange peel
2 T. sugar (Sucanat or Turbinado works especially well)
1 t. vanilla
¼ c. (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

Equipment needed: 11-inch French-style removable bottom tart pan

 
  1. Make pastry crust and pre-bake, as directed in following recipe.
  2. Roast nuts by spreading them in one layer onto a 10- x 15-inch rimmed baking pan and bake in a 350ºF pre-heated oven until lightly toasted beneath the skins (break nuts open to check, if necessary), about 6 minutes. Do not over brown or nuts will become bitter. Set aside to cool.
  3. Grind the lavender flowers and grated orange peel with the sugar in a spice grinder or alternate coffee grinder (I have two: one for coffee, the other for herbs and spices.) In a bowl, combine eggs, honey, maple syrup, ground lavender, sugar & orange peel, and vanilla. Mix well. Add cooled, melted butter and beat until well blended. Stir in toasted nuts.
  4. Bake tart on lowest rack of a 350ºF oven until top is golden brown all over and slightly puffed, 25-30 minutes. Let cool in pan on a baking rack.
  5. To serve, remove pan sides. Cut into wedges; serve with whipped cream or ice cream atop each serving, if desired.
 
Pâte Sucrée (Sweet Pastry Crust)

This is the basic sweet crust recipe, perfect for any dessert tart or pie.

Makes one 11-inch tart crust.

 

 

Ingredients:
1 ¼ c. all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
2 T. sugar
Pinch sea salt (1/8 t.)
½ cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut in pieces
1 large egg yolk, beaten
1-2 T. ice water
Egg wash: 1 whole egg & 1 t. water

Equipment needed:
Parchment paper or aluminum foil
2-3 cups dried beans, to weight tart crust (may be reused)

 
  1. Place flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor, and process for a few seconds to combine. Add egg yolk, processing a few seconds more. Add the butter pieces to the flour mixture, and process until the mixture resembles coarse meal, about 10 seconds. Add the ice water in a slow, steady stream, through the feed tube while pulsing , just until the dough holds together. Do not process more than 30 seconds or allow machine to run continuously, or dough will become tough. (If mixing dough manually, whisk flour, sugar and salt together; then whisk in egg yolk. Cut butter into flour with pastry cutter or fork until butter pieces are pea-size or smaller. Add just enough ice water to make pastry hold together.)
  2. Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface, and roll out until the dough extends the tart pan by one inch all around, dusting with more flour to avoid sticking. (Do not add more flour than necessary). Fold dough in half and in half again in order to lift it without tearing. Place into tart pan and shape dough to pan. Prick the bottom all over with a fork to allow steam to escape. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 30 minutes, or place in freezer 10-15 minutes. This allows the butter to solidify and create a flakier crust. (When placed in a pre-heated oven, the solidified chilled butter holds a “space” as the pastry sets, creating a lighter pastry than would room temperature butter.)
  3. Preheat oven to 350 °F. Line the pastry crust in with parchment paper, and pour the dried beans onto the parchment paper to weight the pastry and prevent shrinking. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove parchment paper and beans; and bake an additional 2 minutes, until cooked and slightly puffed, but not colored. Remove from oven, and glaze with egg wash, then bake again 2 minutes. Set aside until ready to add filling.
 
Gougère with Turkey Filling

What to do with left-over turkey?? Make a tasty (and surprisingly easy!) French gougère. Gougère is a cheese flavored choux pastry that is piped into a ring shape before being baked. Gougère can be served hot or cold as an hors d'oeuvre (the baked ring can stand alone), or baked with a filling inside the ring and served as an entrée.

Serves 4 as a main dish.

 


Ingredients
:

1 recipe Basic Choux Pastry with cheese
3 T. unsalted butter
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
1 bell pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces
6 small mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 large carrot, sliced in rounds
1 T. +1 t. all-purpose flour
1 c. chicken stock
¼ c. dry white wine
1 t. fresh thyme
¼ lb. turkey *, cut into strips about ¼-inch long
2 tomatoes, seeded and cut into strips (optional)
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
2 T. freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 T. chopped parsley
 
  1. Prepare and bake the Basic Choux Pastry with Cheese, as directed in following recipe; then proceed with the filling.
  2. Melt butter and cook onions slowly until soft. Add the peppers and mushrooms and cook for 2 more minutes. Add carrots and sauté until slightly tender, about more 5 minutes. Sprinkle flour over sauteed vegetables, stir until vegetables are well coated with dissolved flour. Add the stock, wine, and thyme. Bring to a boil, then quickly to a simmer, stirring until mixture thickens. Remove pan from heat and add the turkey and tomatoes, if using. Taste, and season accordingly with salt and pepper.
  3. Pour the turkey mixture into the center of the pastry ring in the baking dish, and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.
  4. Bake for 20 minutes, until filling is bubbly. (To avoid overbrowning the pastry ring, cover ring loosely with foil, if necessary.)
  5. Let sit at least 5 minutes before serving; sprinkle with chopped parsley.

    * Chicken may be substitued at other times of the year, as may ham strips or roast beef. If using ham or beef, it is recommended to use beef stock instead of chicken stock.
 
Basic Choux Pastry with Cheese

Known in French as pâte-à-choux, this special pastry is made by an entirely different method of other pastries. Choux pastry is used to make cream puffs, éclairs, gougère, and profiteroles. Unfilled, cooked puffs may be made up to 3 weeks ahead and frozen in Ziplock freezer bags. When ready to use, defrost and warm in a 350°F oven for 3-5 minutes until crisp. Properly prepared choux pastry is slightly shiny and somewhat sticky. On humid days, you may need to reduce the number of eggs in order to achieve the right consistency. To test the pastry, run a wooden spoon down the middle of the dough; it should form a trough that quickly closes in on itself.

Makes one batch (serves 4 as part of gougère)

 

Ingredients for Basic Pâte-à-choux:
1 c. water
6 T. unsalted butter, cut in pieces
¼ t. Sea salt
Pinch of cayenne pepper
1 c. all-purpose flour
4 large whole eggs

To make cheese choux pastry:
½ c. freshly, finely grated Parmesan, Pecorino or Romano cheese
½ c. freshly grated Gruyère or Swiss cheese

Egg glaze: 2 egg yolks + 1 t. water

Recommended tool: A wooden spoon (works better in this recipe than a heat-proof spatula)

 
  1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter a 10-inch glass pie dish or baking dish. Whisk the cayenne pepper into the flour. Place the water, butter, and salt into a large saucepan and slowly bring to a boil until butter is melted and the water just comes to a boil.
  2. Remove from heat and add the flour all at once, stirring rapidly and constantly with a wooden spoon until flour mixture pulls away from the sides of the pan and forms a ball, about 5 minutes. Return to heat and stir vigorously for 2-3 minutes, to expel moisture. The mixture will form a mass and a film will form on bottom of pan. Remove from heat and pour into large heat-proof mixing bowl.
  3. Add eggs, one by one, beating vigorously after each addition (make this easier by using electric beaters on low speed) until they are completely incorporated and the pastry is smooth. The mixture will fall apart when you first start beating in an egg but should form a mass again as you continue beating. When it comes together, add another egg. Whisk the fourth egg in a small bowl. Slowly beat it into the dough until the mixture is shiny and still holds its shape ~ you may not need all of the last egg.
  4. Gently stir cheeses into warm pastry.
  5. With two large tablespoons, arrange the dough in mounds around the outside edge of the buttered pie dish, forming a ring with a hollow center. Gently glaze the ring with egg glaze using a soft pastry brush or your finger. Smooth the top of each mound. Bake for 20 minutes. Remove pastry ring from oven and pierce each mound with a sharp knife or skewer. If possible, crack the oven door slightly. (Piercing the pastry and keeping the door cracked allows moisture to escape so that the interior is not soggy.) Bake an additional 10 minutes or more until pastry is golden and crisp to the touch. Cool completely on a baking rack.
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HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

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